I arrived to Dawei on yet another night bus and took a 4am 40minute ride on the back of a motorbike - under the moonlit sky, longyi flapping in the cold morning air and backpack weighing heavy - towards Maung Ma Kan, a beach town on the southern coast.
My first day was spent on Nabule - reachable my motorbike, km after km of wild tropical sands. After hours of solitude I went to investigate a faint silhouette in the distance and found it to be an old crooked local mining for shellfish. He showed me his technique and I managed to add about half a kilo to his little green bag before heading back to my spot for some more nudist indulgence. The next day i walked south down Maung Ma Kan beach and at then end found this little fishing village. There was a minefield of shit to get there - fish heads plastic bags and some god awful smells but when i finally reached the village it was wonderful to see the whole community working together to turn the cogs of the local trade - everybody had a task whether it be carrying bags, chipping ice or chopping heads.
I sat and had a beer, bobbed my head to the keyboard mayhem that was booming out into the fishy air and let a mentally challenged boy prepare me some beetle nut whilst getting pretty pissed off at all the fishy flies in my face - they really were only attacking me.
I slipped into two fish heads and ice-skated back up towards coconut guesthouse, singing all the way :)